Fireworks & your pets     

As enjoyable as fireworks are to us they can be terrifying for animals both big and small. Firework phobia (mainly fear of the loud noises) can present itself in many forms of anxious and stressful behaviour.

These can include:

• Excessive Vocalisation
• Urinating/defaecating inside
• Unsettled behaviour (e.g. hiding, trying to escape, panting, shaking)
• Destructive behaviour (e.g. self-harm and/or to the household)

There are a number of cost-free options that you can do to help alleviate unnecessary anxiety.

• Keep cats and dogs in a secure environment – inside, away from windows and make available a spot for them to hide in if necessary (e.g. in a crate, under a bed etc).  For your smaller furry friends it is a good idea to move hutches inside, into the garage or to cover them up with a blanket heavy enough to block out the flashes of light.
• Close all curtains and turn on the TV/radio loud enough to distract from the noises of the fireworks.
• Try to ignore any signs of anxious behaviour as this will only encourage further unwanted behaviour.
• Exercise dogs in daylight hours.
• Have identification on all animals at all times in the event that they do escape (e.g. microchip and/or collar with current phone numbers and details).

If these options are not enough to settle nerves there are a number of  remedies specifically designed for anxiety in cats and dogs. In extreme cases sedative medication can be prescribed but the pet must be seen by a veterinarian first.

Feliway (cats only)

Feliway is a synthetic version of a natural feline’s facial pheromones. The purpose of these pheromones is to convey a sense of security and calm. This product comes in two forms – a spray and a plug-in diffuser. We would recommend using the diffuser for this particular issue and to start using it at least a week prior to sale of fireworks.

For more information see www.feliway.com/us/

D.A.P. (Dog appeasing pheromone)

D.A.P. is a synthetic version of the natural canine appeasing pheromone. It is safe, odourless and does not cause sedation. We would recommend using the diffuser in the instance of firework anxiety.

For more information see www.dapdiffuser.com

Calmex (Dogs only)

Calmex is a calming supplement in the form of a capsule given 30-60 minutes before needed (the dosage will vary according to the weight of your dog). It is a natural blend of two amino acids, a psychoactive plant extract and B-vitamins, all of these combined produces a mild sedation and anti-anxiety effect.

Osteoarthritis, also known as Degenerative joint disease (DJD) is a crippling condition involving a progressive deterioration of the articular cartilage in movable joints.

Cartilage works as a smooth cushion protecting the ends of the bones in a movable joint.As cartilage degrades it becomes rough and worn away exposing the bone. Unlike cartilage bone dose have nerves, so when the two bone ends touch pain and inflammation present impairing mobility. In DJD small bony attachments (osteophytes) can form on the bone around the joint adding to the pain.

Arthritis can occur as a result of wear and tear on an otherwise normal joint. This occurs with age so is commonly presented in our more geriatric pets. Osteoarthritis will also occur in animals of any age following a joint infection, fracture, trauma or any abnormal stress during movement of the joint. Some breeds have a genetic predisposition and are more prone to arthritis where other breeds have poor limb configurations and congenital joint problems such as hip and elbow dysplasia. (This is considered secondary DJD)

What are the symptoms of Osteoarthritis?

The symptoms of arthritis will vary considerably depending on the severity of the condition and the species of pet. (Cats have an exceptional ability to ‘hide’ their ailments.)

First general symptoms displayed in canines are lameness. An altered gait where they compensate by placing more weight on the unaffected joints. Due to this lack of use, after a period of time muscle atrophy (reduction of muscle size) will be evident in the affected limbs.

Signs to watch for to detect osteoarthritis are;

Difficulty walking, climbing and raising from lying position

Overall decreased activity/play

Swollen joints

Licking or biting at joint

Personality change – no longer tolerates being touched

Reluctance to or unable to jump

Cats become considerably more hesitant and lose their graceful cat like agility

Feline osteoarthritis symptoms are generally more challenging to identify than canine. The ability to ‘hide’ their ailments is often explained as a protective behaviour to hide disease and debility. This impairs our recognition of chronic pain and clinical signs of feline arthritis are more subtle. It is identified by not what they are doing but by what they are no longer doing. Cats being an intelligent species think “if it’s going to hurt then why do it?” where as a dog will still do the activity giving you the more obvious pain and mobility cue.

Life style and behavioural adaptations help cats cope with the debilitating effects of osteoarthritis

Using intermediate steps to jump to usual places

Resting in lower locations

Pulling themselves up opposed to jumping

Lack of grooming, vocalisation and aggression can also be related to osteoarthritis.

Diagnosing Osteoarthritis 

A confirmed diagnosis of arthritis can be made by your veterinarian when performing a complete physical examination. Often it can be detected without x-ray or further tests by the vet manipulating the joint gently checking for swelling, heat, evidence of pain, restriction of movement range and crepitus (grating feeling when manipulated). Sometimes an x-ray is necessary to confirm and gauge the deterioration of the joint. If there is heat in a joint a fluid sample may be obtained to test for joint infection.

How is osteoarthritis treated?

Osteoarthritis unfortunately cannot be cured but can be managed by:

Weight control; as the arthritis progresses pets will become less active resulting in weight gain. Obesity will load unnecessary stress on joints. Controlling your pet’s weight and maintaining a lean body mass score will allow easier movement. This is achievable by feeding a well-balanced calorie reduced diet.

Exercise; this is essential to maintain healthy muscle mass and strength to support joints.Daily, moderate, low impact exercise can help joint mobility.

Dogs can benefit from gentle walks and swimming.

Cats can profit from play that keeps them moving without jumping.

Exercise should only be performed to the relevance of you pets arthritis and recommended by your vet. Depending on the arthritic severity rest may be prescribed.

Anti-inflammatory’s (NSAIDs); Medical intervention is the main treatment of choice for osteoarthritis. This will control the pain and inflammation caused by arthritis enabling the animal to function to a degree of normality. Unfortunately it will not change the pathology of the joint, medication will control the condition not cure it. There are a variety of anti-inflammatory medications available by prescription with your veterinarian. Your vet will suggest the anti-inflammatory best suited for your pet to elevate the pain and discomfort of osteoarthritis.

Anti-inflammatories can also be supported by complementary therapies such as nutraceuticals (chondroitin and Glucosamine).  Veterinarians now have available specific prescription diets for nutritional support formulated to improve joint health.

In extreme cases surgery may also be indicated. Generally when arthritis presents in younger animals with a congenital joint defect like hip dysplasia and a complete replacement is necessary.

Please contact us to discuss this further and assess any osteoarthritis your pet may be suffering from.

Dental disease in pets is an incredibly common ailment – affecting up to 95% of cats and dogs.

Once plaque forms this leads to a build-up of tartar which can then eventuate into gingivitis (gum inflammation). If the tartar is not removed further problems will arise such as bad breath, bleeding gums, difficulty eating, tooth loss and an overall loss in happy demeanor (due to dental pain).

If left untreated the bacteria associated with the tartar can eventually enter the bloodstream which in turn affects major organs such as the heart, liver and kidneys.

Treatment:

The only way to start from scratch is to scale and polish the teeth under an anaesthetic (unfortunately it is not something that cats and dogs tolerate while awake!). It is a routine procedure in which it is quite common that teeth may need to be removed as tartar can hide cavities and exposed tooth roots.

Prevention:

The key to good dental hygiene is PREVENTION!

There are numerous options that you can do at home to help keep your pet’s pearly whites sparkling.

1.      Diet – There are specialty diets formulated for both cats and dogs such as Hills Science Diet T/D or Royal Canin Dental.  The kibble has a unique design in which it takes longer for the kibble to crumble which optimizes the length of time scrubbing the surface of the tooth.

2.     Water additive – “Aquadent” is added to drinking water with antibacterial, antiplaque and anticalculus properties. It is safe for both cats and dogs.

3.       Treats/chews – There are specially formulated dental chew bars which help ‘scrub’ the teeth while chewing such as Royal Canin oral bars and Virbac VeggeiDent chews. The R/C oral bars also contain the agent sodium polyphosphate that makes calcium ions unavailable for tartar formation.

4.   Teethbrushing – There are products available to actually brush your pet’s teeth for them! C.E.T toothpastes come in two flavours – malt or poultry and are designed to be swallowed unlike human toothpaste. Toothbrushes come in numerous shapes and sizes to allow for different mouths.

   For more information or for further queries please contact the team at Avonhead Vets on

358 4407.

Lost

Contact your closest vet clinic; there may be more than one and they may not be your regular clinic but lost animals are often brought in when they are found. Alternatively, someone may have contacted the clinic to list an animal as found and given left their contact details.

In the case of lost dogs contact the City Council dog control. The contact number is 03 941 8666. Have a look at their website for more information: www.ccc.govt.nz/homeliving/petsanimals/lostfoundanimals/index.aspx

The address is:
10 Metro Place
Bromley
Christchurch

Opening hours:
Mon – Fri 1pm – 5:30pm
Sat 11am – 1pm

The next step is to look online; the two main websites where people list lost and found animals are Trade Me and Pets on the Net.

Trade Me: www.trademe.co.nz/pets-animals/lost-found
Pets on the Net: www.petsonthenet.co.nz/index.htm

When you realize your animal is missing, visit these websites and advertise your lost animal, include a picture and full description.

The important thing to remember is to not give up too soon. Be patient and keep relisting!

Contact the SPCA and see if they have had any animals brought in to them that meet your animal’s description – although Pets on the Net is where the SPCA lists all their found animals. It is important to try all options, even if they are only a small chance.

SPCA:
Animal Centre
14 Wilmers Road
Hornby
Christchurch
Ph: 03 3497057
www.spcacanterbury.org.nz/

Talk to your neighbours and people on your street. Find out if they have seen your animal recently and ask them to keep an eye out for them.

Flyers! Put up flyers around your neighbourhood so neighbours can keep a lookout for your beloved pet.

Remember again, it is important not to give up hope!

Prevent

To assist in a speedy return of your missing pet, micro-chipping gives a great advantage.

Take any found animal into your nearest animal facility for micro-chip scanning to retrieve the owner’s details.

See the micro-chipping link for more information about micro-chipping.

Having a collar with a tag on your pet is also a help. The tags can show your contact details so if anyone finds your animal they can contact you directly. Keep details on the tag up to date. Some animals can lose their collars though, so micro-chipping is the more permanent option.

With dogs, ensure they are securely fenced in your own property and cannot get out. Ensure your dog is under your control when in public places.

Found

If you do find an animal or notice one hanging around, take action straight away – don’t just wait and presume it will find its own way home. It may be lost or even injured. List online on Trade Me and Pets on the Net, check daily to look at the listed lost animals for possible match. Ask around your neighbourhood to see if it belongs to anyone and put up a flyer advertising the found animal. Contact your local vet clinics, SPCA and council (if a dog) to list as found.

The worst thing you can do is nothing at all. Take the necessary steps to reunite the animal with its owner.

diseases are now managed by regular vaccination.

Protect your pets by ensuring they receive regular vaccinations*!

What You Are Vaccinating Against

Dogs

• Canine Parvovirus
• Canine Distemper Virus
• Infectious Canine Hepatitis
• Para-Influenza Virus
• Bordetella Bronchiseptica

 Cats

• Feline Infectious Enteritis
• Feline Herpes Virus
• Feline Calicivirus
• Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)

 Rabbits

• Viral Haemorrhagic Disease

*A vaccination is a small injection administered under the skin in the proximity of the animal’s neck.

Recommended Vaccination Protocol at Our Clinic

Generally, the immunity (disease-fighting antibodies) that a puppy or kitten gains from its mother’s milk will begin to diminish around six weeks of age in pups and eight to nine weeks in kittens.

It is recommended to begin the initial vaccinations at this time.

 Dogs/Puppies

• First DHP vaccine can be given from six to eight weeks of age, followed by a booster vaccine three to four weeks later at 10 to 12 weeks of age.
• A NobiVac Kennel cough vaccine may be administered with either of the above vaccines.
• Nobivac DHP and Nobivac KC is given at one year of age, then every one to three years thereafter.
• If your pet is likely to be going in to kennels, please check with individual establishment’s vaccine protocols.

 Cats/Kittens

• First Nobivac Tricat vaccine can be given from eight weeks of age, followed by a booster vaccine three to four weeks later when kitten is 11 to 12 weeks of age.
• If a FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus) vaccine is administered on the first visit, another two boosters are due, to be given two to three weeks apart each time.
• Nobivac Tricat is given at one year of age, then every three years thereafter – in between years, a Nobivac Ducat is administered.
• Note that most boarding catteries require that cats be vaccinated every 12 months. Please check with the individual establishment.

 Rabbits

• An initial vaccination of Cylap RCD is given when the rabbit is two-and-a-half to three months of age.
• An annual booster vaccination is recommended.
• If earlier vaccination is necessary (younger than two-and-a-half to three months), then a booster is advisable when the rabbit does reach two-and-a-half to three months of age.

Advantages for De-sexing Pets

The main purpose for de-sexing is to avoid overpopulation with unwanted puppies and kittens, but there are other advantages too.

Male

Reduction of unwanted behaviours such as:

• Mounting (other animals, owner and visitor’s leg!).
• Urine spraying (particularly male cats).
• Roaming (tracking females in heat).
• Some forms of aggression.
• Reduce chance of prostate cancer.
• No testicular cancer.

Female

• No unwanted pregnancy.
• No hassle of being on heat (confinement for that period, no mess spotting for bitches).
• Reduction of chance of mammary tumours.
• No pseudo-pregnancies.
• No ovarian cancer and no pyometra, a life-threatening infection of the uterus.

Concerns with De-sexing

• Weight gain can be a factor for neutered pets. An easy solution can be simply a reduction of food intake and healthy exercise regime.
• Urinary incontinence can occur in a small percentage of spayed females later in life. Incontinence is easily controlled with medication and is a lesser risk than other complications involved in not speying.

What Age Should You De-sex Your Pet?

Ideally your pet should be de-sexed before reaching sexual maturity, before adopting the unwanted behaviours mentioned above.

Sexual maturity for felines can be from as early as six months, so de-sexing is recommended between five and six months of age, before hormones reach peak levels.

Canine sexual maturity is generally between six and nine months; females can have their first heat around this time, so de-sexing at five to six months of age is recommended before this occurs.

What does it involve?

No matter if your loved pet is a cat or dog, male or female, bringing them in for de-sexing is generally a one-day procedure in which they are dropped off between 8am or 9am and usually picked up between 4pm and 6pm.

It is required that they have no breakfast on the morning of the surgery (no food after 8pm the night prior) but a bowl of water is fine left out overnight.

It is recommended to toilet your animal before bringing it into the clinic; cats should be locked inside with a litter tray to ensure they are at hand in the morning.

De-sexing is performed under a general anaesthetic in which complications and risks can arise, but due to veterinary advancements, e.g. safer patient-tailored drugs, monitoring equipment and a team dedicated to ensuring the safety of your pet, these risks are greatly minimised.

Aftercare

For both cats and dogs it is important that they are kept as quiet as possible in the days following surgery to aid in the healing of the surgery site.

Generally recovery from anaesthesia is fairly quick, from 24 to 48 hours.

The most important aspect of aftercare is to ensure that they do not lick or bite at the stitches (cat neuters do not have stitches as the incision site is too small) while healing. If they do interfere with the incision, an e-collar will be needed to prevent this. The stitches are then removed in 10 to 14 days.

New Zealand Companion Animal Register (NZCAR)

The NZCAR is designed with the sole purpose in retrieving lost domestic animals New Zealand-wide, 24/7. If you opt to register your pet with the NZCAR, their microchip number will be stored in a database along with all of your contact details. Although it is not a legal requirement to belong to the NZCAR, the advantage is the prompt time in which your beloved pet can be returned to you.

For more information see http://www.animalregister.co.nz

Current NZ Legislation

The following dogs are required by law to be micro-chipped (cats are not legally required to be micro-chipped):

• All dogs first registered from 1 July 2006 (except stock-working farm dogs, which are exempt). These dogs will mainly be puppies when they are first registered at three months old.
• All dogs classified as dangerous or menacing since 1 December 2003 (dogs classified as dangerous before 1 December 2003 will not have to be micro-chipped).
• Unregistered dogs that are impounded and released.
• Registered dogs that are impounded for a second time and released.

For more information, see: http://www.ccc.govt.nz/homeliving/petsanimals/dogregistration/index.aspx